Focus on the Basics Brings Success to Good Spirit Farm
A Home of Organic Artisan Breads
by Kathy Ponath

Bread is a food that means so much to us, both symbolically and physically, yet is often relegated to a lowly side-dish or afterthought at most North American meal times. Perhaps this is because many of us have chosen a pale substitute for the health-giving, nutrition-laden bread of old that really could lay claim to the title "Staff of Life". A growing number of people are gaining appreciation for bread hand-fashioned with thought and care from quality ingredients—artisan bread.

It has been said that when considering artisan bread, one must consider the person making that bread. Peyton Leavitt and Jonathon Lee of Good Spirit Farm near Lac Vert, are artisans, in every sense of the word. Their breads have not only been a major draw at the Saskatoon Farmers' Market but have become a business success beyond their initial expectations. Peyton and Jonathon have found that the success of their artisan bread industry has brought financial stability to their small farm, as well as allowed them to take creative satisfaction in producing health-giving food.

Peyton has always baked home-made bread and been interested in natural wholesome food. At one time she worked at a corporate retreat centre, providing organic, natural foods as part of the crash course in lifestyle changes the retreat offered. This often meant sourcing the foods she prepared from local farmers—an element that is still important to her in the making of artisan bread. She later became interested in raising goats because of her interest in the health benefits of goat milk. The development of an artisan bread home industry in many ways is an outgrowth of their lifestyle and philosophy.

Jonathon and Peyton moved to the Lac Vert district over four years ago from Nova Scotia, determined to make a living from a quarter section of land. Jonathon said that in that time they have come to greatly appreciate the potential that exists in rural Saskatchewan.

"In our experience, we never could have got the kind of support we've found in rural Saskatchewan anywhere else."

When the BSE crisis fallout began to impact their goat farming enterprise, Peyton began to think of other ways she could bring in extra income. She was drawn to the bread-making described in Daniel Leader and Judith Blahnik's book, Bread Alone ­ Bold Fresh Loaves From Your Own Hands.

Making artisan bread is a very creative process. While it requires a technical understanding of what makes a good bread, it also relies on a craftsperson's sensibilities and personal attention to detail. Jonathon, a professional artist, as well as a goat farmer, has joined Peyton in making the bread, progressing from her helper to the point where he has developed three or four types of bread himself. Together they work over 100 hours a week, producing 475 loaves of fresh bread for the Saskatoon Farmers' Market every Saturday.
They have about fifteen different types of whole grain breads made from organic wheat, barley, lentils, and other heritage grains like red fife and spelt. They have specialty breads like the popular Mediterranean Olive bread and others made with seasonal produce, like Goat Cheese Zucchini bread, Plum bread, and Saskatoon bread. Some of the most nutritious breads are made from sprouted grain. They use very little yeast, no sugar, and no oil. No preservatives or artificial flavourings of any kind are added. Each loaf is hand-fashioned and baked in a wicker basket in a clay lined oven to give the characteristic beautifully grained crust. The bread is all made the night before the market to ensure as fresh a product as possible, although requiring John and Peyton to maintain a brutal pace.

The key to their success is repeat customers who have come to depend on the weekly supply. Peyton says it is very gratifying to have customers return not only because they enjoy the flavour and aesthetic satisfaction the product brings, but because they feel better for having added the wholesome food to their diet. They think people are becoming more educated about nutrition and definitely are willing to go out of their way to find products that they can trust.

"It's really just common sense," said Jonathon. "Take basic food and don't fool with it much."
Both Jonathon and Peyton are dedicated to maintaining the integrity of the artisan process, and if one compares the nutritive value, their product is much cheaper than the mass-produced product of the superstores.

"Really eating more natural food is less expensive when you consider everything," said Peyton.
Peyton observed that people are too busy to enjoy the preparation of food and to enjoy eating together and feels something valuable is lost in our fast track, fast food lifestyles. Her breads hark back to a time when food fed body and soul in a much more satisfying manner.

They are looking at options to set up a bakery so they could become certified to sell through a store, expanding market options. They are trying to be careful that their expansions lead in the direction of making their work load a little more sustainable, not necessarily increasing production.

"We've got a good thing going so the key is to stay focussed," explained Jonathon.

In less than a year-and-a-half Peyton Leavitt and Jonathon Lee took an idea and turned it into a reality beyond what they initially thought it could be. Jonathon credits Peyton's passion and she credits his patience. Jonathon emphasized the lesson they've learned: "There is potential here, if you sometimes look between the lines. If you are willing to work, there is support for small diverse businesses here in small-town Saskatchewan."

This article was first published in the Naicam News on September 16, 2005. Their contact information is Box 576, Watson, SK, S0K 4V0, phone (306) 287-4388, fax (306) 287-3308.

Kathy Ponath is a freelance writer, living on her family grain farm near Naicam, Saskatchewan. Writing about the fascinating lives and stories on her doorstep brings a "value-added" facet to farm life. Her email address is kathyponath@sasktel.net.